Ya gotta keep a few important considerations in mind:
Your RV has a weight limit, never exceed it.


Your RV has a towing weight limit, never exceed it.


Your RV has an electrical power limit, if you exceed it you will have to turn some things off in order to use other things.


We don't sell any products here, we don't represent any products here, I'm not even giving you links to products here. But I'll tell you this: 85% of the stuff I've bought was from Amazon, 10% from WalMart, and 5% from Camping World.


It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.


You'll need an extension cord.
You'll need a Surge Protector. If you're 50amp and carry a 30amp dogbone you'll need 2 Surge Protectors. If you fry the wiring in your rig you're gonna have a bad day and an expensive repair.
My RV is wired for 50amp service. Not every campsite and/or RV park provides 50amp service. For those that only provide 30amp service you need a 30amp Surge Protector and a Dogbone.
Dogbone. That's what they call it. For my RV, which is wired for 50amps, if I don't have 50amp service available I turn off the breaker at the service pedestal, plug in the 30amp Surge Protector, plug in the 30-to-50 Dogbone, plug in my 50amp power cable, and flip on the breaker. (Also, if I can't verify 50amp service I'll likely not go there, and if I don't have 50amp service available when I get there I'll likely never go back again.) Yes, I can provide myself 50amps by running the Generator, and doing so is very simple and gasoline-efficient but it's not very quiet.


You'll need a fresh water hose, and probably a backup fresh water hose. The permanently coiled hose is much better (for me). I was having epic battles with the standard water hose. No wrestling matches with the coiled water hose. It deploys instantly and stores very neatly.
The elbow takes some of the weight off of your city water hose connection on your RV.
A splitter let's you use water while still serving water to your RV. Attach this at the pedestel water faucet first.
Water pressures vary drastically from one campground to another, from one RV Park to another. Recommendations are from 40 to 50 psi going in to your RV, specifically my Winnebago Adventurer owner's manual says 40psi. A water pressure-guage will protect your RV's plumbing. Don't cheap-out on this item.
A hose basket will keep your campsite looking neat and squared away. Get one and use it.
You must have an inline water filter. A lot of water out there is nasty. Attach the water pressure-guage, adjust to 40psi or 45psi, attach the water filter, attach your water hose, run the water for a minute (then turn off the water), attach the other end of the fresh water hose to your RV (turn on the water). Make sure the water pump is OFF.
This is an easy way to top off your water tank not using the city water connection.
If you get a water service attachment with messed up threads don't ruin your own gear, use this instead.
Use your fresh water hose(s) ONLY for fresh water. So you'll also need another hose for spraying things off. And then you'll also need another hose for flushing the grey/blank tanks and hoses. That's 3 hoses.
These type of hoses are much easier to store and they weigh less than conventional hoses.


    Grey Water is everything that goes down the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink and the shower. Dump this tank AFTER you dump the Black Tank.
    Black Water is everything you put in and flush down the toilet. Dump this tank FIRST then dump the Grey Tank to pre-flush the hose. Then hookup another hose to the cleanout to flush both tanks and the hose. This is not the horrible task that many RVers joke about IF nothing goes wrong, nothing breaks, and you don't make any mistakes.
These are Valterra waste valves. They are essential equipment, they will prevent even a single drop of waste liquid from leaking.
Get a good waste hose kit. Also get a 10' extension just in case. (I keep an extra 5' extension and a 10' extension in the garage for when I clean the tanks using my sewer cleanout at the house.)
Sewer cleanout plug wrench. If you need this and don't have it you could have a bad day...
Sewer hose rail. I didn't think I'd need this but I did. The rail supports the hose and keeps it elevated above the dump connection for a straight outflow.
Sewer hose seal. I didn't think I'd need this either but I did. The seal holds the downstream hose end in the dump connection with no worries. This makes dumping the tanks a one-person job.
When you're working with Grey or Black tanks you need to be wearing disposable gloves, and that makes getting a firm no-slip grip difficult. This cap is a superior replacement for the standard cap.


RVers will shun you if you don't have an InstaPot. It cooks food, like a Crock Pot + Pressure Cooker. It's not better than either just faster.
RVers will shun you if you don't have an Oxygenics shower head. I don't know what the big deal is but this looks better than the original. Note also that when you're hooked up to "city" water you still can't take overly long showers because you'll fill up your Grey Water Tank real quick. This means you'll need a "Full Hook-Up" site and you'll need to dump that Grey Water Tank maybe every other day...
Even after...
  • Using the official fresh water tank sanitizing procedures, twice,
  • Using an incoming fresh water filter,
  • And having an RO (reverse osmosis)* filter at the kitchen sink...
I'm still not drinking that water. So we keep a filtered water container in the refridgerator.
*The under-sink RO filter isn't really a Reverse Osmosis filter but it does provide another (better) level of filtering. Depending on your usage replace once or twice a year.
Good idea to test your Fresh Water tank water for various impurities.
Very good idea to test your Fresh Water tank water for bacteria. My Fresh Water Tank tested ZERO bacteria. I'm still not drinking it...
The first water container didn't fit well in the refridgerator. The Brita is a better fit.
We carry 8 gallons of RO-perfect water (from our in-home RO filter). The plastic bottles are BPA Free and FDA certified, with a good handle. Eight gallons is slightly more than double the water we use on a weekend so I'm ready to bugout if I need to... They fit under a dinette seat. WalMart.
We also run a 30-pint dehumidifier in our RV. Our older style basement AC does an excellent job of dehumidifying and this dehumidifier completes that. It needs emptying every couple of days. Note: It might seem like you've got an airtight metal box but you don't. Our doors and windows seal very well but there are plenty of small gaps around the slide-outs. Add up all these small gaps and you probably have the equivalent of a one-foot square hole in the side of your RV. So you're going to get outside humidity inside. Conversely, your RV can accumulate and then retain humidity very easily.

Humidity is serious concern if you live and/or RV in Florida like we do. So I started monitoring the interior of the RV with this device and I immediately noticed how well-made the cabinet doors and drawers were. There was a big difference in temperature and humidity between the RV's common spaces and inside the drawers and in the closet. I have a sensor/transmitter in the cockpit area, another next to the bedroom, and the third one in a bedroom closet drawer.
So I started placing the silica packets in the closet drawers, under the bed, and I hang one of those bags in the closet. If you don't control humidity you'll get mold. On my RV the stuff that looks like real wood actually is real wood (mostly). If you get mold you'll have a problem you'll never completely get rid of...
Get a good first aid kit. Keep it in the RV, not in basement storage. Don't cheap out on this.
Most RVs are well lit but a motion detection under-counter light can be real handy in certain spots such as under the kitchen and bathroom sinks. These are USB rechargeable.
I also use these motion detection strip lights in the overhead cabinets. These are battery-powered.
A coffee pot with a thermos carafe extends your sitting time and reduces electricity usage.


Get some comfortable chairs, stools, etc.
Get some comfortable chairs, stools, etc.
Get some comfortable chairs, stools, etc.
Get some comfortable chairs, stools, etc.
Get a nice table. Make sure all this stuff collapses lenghtwise and widthwise for easy basement storage.
You'll need a wagon or cart too. We load this up getting ready to go RVing, we load it up again when we return. Fewer trips back and forth. This folds up and stores well.
A mat will help keep dirt, sand, and leaves out of your RV.
We carry a bug zapper because we like that sound when they get zapped.
A good roadside hazard kit is essential.
An IR temperature reader can tell you if you have developing problems with your tires. After a couple hours of driving like a maniac way below the speed limit in the slow lane somebody is gonna have to pee. Zap each tire. You'll be shocked at how hot they are. That's normal. If one tire is waay hotter than the others that's NOT normal.
All the expert advice says use tire covers because sunlight can damage the rubber and prematurely wear the tires. Okay, maybe so... So I use tire covers most of the time even though I don't like the 'look' of it.
Most RVers and Campers are not dissuaded by you providing crappy guest chairs (or no guest chairs) on your under-awning patio. (They want to see inside your RV, verify your InstaPot, your shower head, etc. They won't leave until they're satisfied.)


Our RV is an older model and doesn't have automatic levelling, this type of levelling help device is suppossed to be great. It's not. The Start/Stop (On/Off) switch doesn't work. You put batteries in it and you can't turn it off until you remove the batteries. The onboard Winnebago leveling is cute: You press the UP arrow to move the jacks DOWN... Wanna raise or lower just one jack? You can't... You can raise or lower one SIDE or the other, you can raise or lower the entire Front or the entire Rear. The manufacturer's instructions insist on you leveling one Side or the other Side first, then the Front or Rear using the indicator lights on the panel. This always results in one Jack not being used (not lowered) and this looks goofy, and most of the time the front left tire is nearly off the ground, also looks goofy. Consequently I rarely level the RV, only when it's very obviously out of level. And I find using the Level App on the iPhone is good enough. I also installed Snap Pads. They're like the InstaPot. If you don't have Snap Pads on your jacks you're not "cool."

I recently started using this levelling aid. Super-easy to install and configure, nearly as accurate as the levelling app on the iPhone. Works with an app on your smartphone (Bluetooth).

Most RVs are just large rectangular boxes. Winnebago says level the RV before extending the slides. So, you find the center of your RV, mine happens to be the refridgerator, so I place this on the floor immediately in front of the refridgerator. My hydraulic jack control panel is on the dashboard, so there's no way I can see the iPhone screen from the driver's seat with the iPhone on the floor in front of the refridgerator. With this app on the iPhone I can hold the iPhone in one hand and operate the jacks with the other hand.
I use the cigarette lighter adapter on the dashboard to power various devices like the Garmin GPS, DashCam, and to charge iPhones, laptops, etc., in the cockpit.
If you have a height-challenged co-pilot you'll want a folding step-stool for her. This one folds flat and stores under the kitchen sink.
Between a good collection of bungee cords....
And a good collection of Command hooks....
And various spring tension rods you can secure almost everything in and on the RV.
Also, these type of cable clamps (below) and cable guides (below) are waaay better than zipties and twisty ties. The cable clamps always retain their original shape and easily pop on and off. The cable guides have adhesive backs and drastically reduce your cable mess keeping it under control.
Identify all your bulbs and keep spares onboard. I don't know about other manufacturers but Winnebago wants you to have several different size bulbs, two different size AC filters, etc.
Identify all your bulbs and keep spares onboard. I don't know about other manufacturers but Winnebago wants you to have several different size bulbs, two different size AC filters, etc.
Sometimes that last step is a bit too high. We carry a "granny step" for us and our dog.
Our RV originally came with a rechargeable flashlight in a compartment near the front door. Very convenient but long since gone. I replaced it.
Our RV needs two different sized filters for the AC (I have no idea why). I carry spares just in case...
These small clamps work great to secure stuff inside your refridgerator. Small stuff will slide all over the place while driving. Even larger, heavier items like milk or water jugs will crash around if you don't secure them.
There aren't many things more frustrating than being crouched over your Wet Bay, in the dark - in the rain, trying to get a no-leak no-spray hose connection. These solid brass hose quick-connects solve that.
Older RVs don't have USB ports. Older RVs are kinda skimpy on electric outlets. These outlet expanders correct that without challenging your wiring. Two outlets become 4 and you get 2 USB ports, all under surge protection. I have also added a USB port outlet replacing a swivel brass reading light.
Our RV doesn't have cup holders except in the cockpit. (There is a pulldown center armrest in the couch with 2 cup holders but using it eliminates 1 seating position.) These clamp-on cup holders are a perfect addition and the clamp-on table (clamps on to the side wall of the dinette after removing the upper cushion) are perfect for keeping stuff off the floor and off your lap.
If you don't eat or cook with eggs you don't need a protective egg carrier...
We use Happy Camper Organic RV Holding Tank Treatment. After trying several other products that only (or mainly) cover up the foul smell with something fruity and ending up with the strong scent of 'Shitrus' we went with something smarter. Completely breaking down the waste material is much more effective at actually eliminating the foul smell. You can help Happy Camper do it's job by reducing the source waste material with a fine kitchen sink strainer.
When you go RVing do you go hiking? We do. When you go hiking do you carry backpacks or overstuffed fanny packs? We do. When you get back do you hang them on hooks by the door or drop them on the floor like everybody else does (where they're always in the way)? We don't do that any more. These hangers were specifically designed for law enforcement or military tactical gear and they will support a hiker's backpack or big fanny pack easily. Hang your gear in your closet, out of the way yet easy to get to.
I will never understand why anybody would make a refrigerator with a front surface you can't put magnets on or a door with handles you can't hang kitchen towels on. I imagine some geniuses sat down in a conference room and said, "If they're gonna go RVing they're gonna need a refrigerator for cold drinks and healthy snacks. Let's make one they can't put magnets on AND with door handles you can't hang a kitchen towel on!"


Anyway, these towel bars are extremely lightweight, adhesive, and look like they were always there.


This doesn't have to be as complicated as some people have made it. However, if you're RVing out in the middle of freaking nowhere or if you're laser-focused on stealing a wifi signal from someone else, then this does become technically complicated. We live and RV in Florida. With a population of over 20 million people plus half the population of Canada for six months of the year we have excellent wifi coverage here in the Sunshine State from both Verizon and AT&T. So I started with the Verizon Jetpack® MiFi® 7730L (Currently: Verizon Jetpack® MiFi® 8800L). This is called a "Hotspot," also called a WiFi Router. This is what provides wireless access to your devices. (Note: After being an AT&T customer for over 20 years I recently had an extremely unpleasant customer service experience with them, I dropped them immediately, I didn't even consider their WiFi Router, and I'll will never be an AT&T customer again...)
My home WiFi Router is a Linksys
Max-Stream AC2200 MU-MIMO Tri-band. This easily handles several laptops, several iPhones, an Apple watch, a Roku 3, and a few other devices over the Spectrum (formerly Brighthouse
Networks, formerly Roadrunner, formerly Comcast) broadband cable network.		 The Verizon Jetpack clearly keeps up with broadband and provides acceptable WiFi performance.
If you see this on your device... ...then we're nearby.

Don't ask for the password. It's not free to me so it's not free to you either...

So we have WiFi on our iPhones, iPad and laptops. And that made TV real easy. I use my old Roku 2 (since I upgraded at home to Roku 3 my Roku 2 was already set up for everything except the WiFi router name/password). Simple setup. Done.




Important Note:
5G is coming (late 2019 to late 2020) and it will drastically change WiFi communications.
Generally, it's probably better to not splurge now and wait for what's coming...




Our first road trip was to the nearest truck stop so we could weigh our RV. We had uninterrupted WiFi (and TV) up and down . I also configured the Garmin and the DashCam to work with our onboard WiFi. No issues. It updates itself and navigates with no problems, my DashCam videos get transferred to my iPhone with no problems.
Well... It really is that easy. IF you're not trying to escape human civilization and it's amenities, IF you're not trying to steal WiFi from other people or businesses. We aren't boondocking a thousand miles from anywhere hunting Bigfoot, we're enjoying a Florida State Park, watching a movie on Netflix on a big TV, having a freshly-made espresso and chocolate brownie, and we're not apologizing...


Update 3/19: After running the Verizon JetPack for about 6 months I have these observations:
  • When you're not being throttled the Verizon JetPack is extremely reliable and fast even miles and miles from a tower. We have left a well-covered area (Tampa-St. Pete-Clearwater) with excellent signal, driven all over Florida, had strong signal and never lost a connection. That's the good news, that's the only good news...
  • The monthly high-speed bandwidth allowance (15Gb) is not sufficient for streaming TV-resolution movies over the course of a month. We're "weekend warriors," we get out to a State or County Park two or three times a month and we're consuming the initial 15Gb in about 6 to 7 days... Since a 2-hour HD movie is about 4Mb of bandwidth I originally concluded that Sweetie's FaceBooking is putting a serious beatdown on the monthly allowance. Then we spent a weekend at a State Park during which I never plugged in the Roku and watched a few DVDs instead. We started Friday afternoon throttled having already used up the 15Gb monthly allowance, got a 5Gb Data Boost ($35), and by mid-morning Sunday we had used the entire 5Gb Data Boost. Proof Positive that FaceBooking is a massive bandwidth consumer. What this means is that if one of you enjoys relaxing with some TV and the other enjoys relaxing with Facebook and/or Instagram then NONE of the Connectivity options currently available are going to be satisfactory or economical. (Reality check: As a Florida resident and senior citizen the cost to stay at a Florida State Park is about half the cost of basic internet - and that's just crazy...)
  • The Data Boost is paltry (5Gb) and ridiculously over-priced ($35).
  • The Data Boost is not available from their iPhone app and requires a telephone call every time you order it. Which means a handoff to 2 or 3 customer service reps before you get one who knows what a JetPack is and this can take 30 minutes which is just not acceptable.
  • Satellite internet plans aren't any better, aren't any faster and are considerably more expensive, including the new Furrion Access. (Neither Furrion nor Winegard has their own infrastructure of cell towers, they are both buying bulk bandwidth from either AT&T or Verizon, so no matter what the advertising says you are vulnerable to being throttled.)
So... I'll be installing the Winegard DISH Playmaker Antenna on the roof, and a Solo Receiver on the new cabinet next to the front door. DISH beats DirectTV in about every possible measurement and taking the streaming load off the Verizon JetPack should make the 15Gb last much longer for Sweetie and her FaceBook addiction.



Update 9/19: After running the Winegard DISH Playmaker for about 6 months I have these observations:
  • Most of us (including me) like a spacious yet cozy RV site. Lots of trees and vegetation for privacy and shade. You can forget watching satellite TV with a lot of trees surrounding your RV.
  • When I want to watch a movie I want to watch that movie NOW. I can't schedule my life based on watching TV. Dish (and DirtectTV) offer a bunch on On-Demand channels and NONE of them are available to you from the satellite. You have to give the Dish receiver (Wally) access to your WiFi internet if you want the On-Demand channels. (And, with Dish, you still can't get On-Demand until you purchase an additional piece of gear, an adapter, and plug it into the back of the Wally.)
  • So I'm acquiring the AT&T unlimited service from OTR Mobile running on the Netgear Nighthawk mobile WiFi Router and dedicating that to TV & Movies.
  • Bandwidth will easily handle streaming YouTube and movies from Netflix, Amazon Prime and Redbox.


Cigarette lighter splitter with 2 USB ports. Gotta have power...
Garmin RV 770 NA (North America). I like Garmin, they are the industry leader for a reason. I use it all the time, I configured it for my onboard WLAN and it updates itself automatically. On our 1st three trips (Colt Creek State Park, FL, Myakka River State Park, FL, and Little Manatee River State Park, FL) we used the Garmin and the Google Maps App on the iPhone or iPad side by side. For the record Garman threw a BRUTAL SMACKDOWN on the Google Maps App. Hands down, Garmin was better at every turn, first to announce every turn, and better at updating the visual mapping. My only complaint is that Garmin, bless her heart, takes too long to figure out I'm not following her specific directions. On the drive south to the Myakka River State Park Garmin thought I'd be okay with driving this huge RV over the Skyway Bridge. NFW! Garmin kept finding one after the other U-turn so I could obey her instructions...
A dash cam (not pictured) is mainly so I can get the last laugh if somebody causes an accident. This one is inexpensive, automatically overwrites older files, works with my onboard WLAN, and works with my iPhone. Note: Some (especially older) RVs have almost no slope to the windshield. Keep that in mind when looking at DashCam mounts. I ended up with a second inexpensive DashCam that had a dashboard mount.
Just a simple mount for my iPhone (iPhone not pictured because I used it to take the picture!)... My CD player skips occasionally and I don't feel like replacing it right now. The good news is it has a USB port and plays tunes off my iPhone with no setup or configuration required. (I also use a 16Gb Flash Drive crammed with tunes when I want my iPhone for other things.) The Winnebago-supplied home theatre sound system is outstanding... Older RVs (probably all Class A RVs) make a ton of noise running down the road. (Imagine two skeletons having wild sex on a tin roof...) No matter how diligent you are at securing everything in your RV there will still be some stuff that bumps and rattles. Background noise, your favorite tunes, will help you stay concentrating on driving... No, I don't drive with the cockpit curtains closed...
Update: I started using an iPad (Mini 4) for Google GPS leaving my iPhone available for various weather and/or traffic alerts. Note: In most instances the Garmin threw a beatdown on Google but I like having a hot backup handy. However, my iPad doesn't have cellular service and that's how Apple's Location Services provides GPS data to Apps. So, I'm using the Dual Electronics XGPS150A Multipurpose Universal Bluetooth GPS Receiver with Wide Area Augmentation System and Portable Attachment to provide the iPad the GPS data it needs:


Update: I'm using the TireMinder TPMS (Tire Pressure Management System) on my iPhone fulltime while underway.

I can't say enough good things about TireMinder, awesome product, and their Customer Service is absolutely 1st class! You have to check your tires every time you get underway. A tire blowout could be a disaster whether you're pulling a trailer or driving a Class A rig. When you get tired of manually checking each tire, each time, this product is what you want.

And I also use my own Air Compressor...

You'll also need accessory kits, especially the digital air pressure gauge, and an extension cord.
After a starting problem I replaced the Starter and installed a trickle charger Chassis Battery maintainer.
Since this page is about Gear, I recommend having a good Battery Charger.
After getting a Check Engine light while driving down the Interstate I installed an OBD (On Board Data) code reader. This device from PLX Devices is Bluetooth-based and is crap. Don't buy anything from PLX Devices. This device, Veepeak, works great. It's WiFi-based.
The iOS app OBD Fusion is pretty good. It will show you the engine condition that triggered the code that turned on the Check Engine light. You can also clear that code. Additionally, you can run real-time monitors which I find to be very cool as well as create your own real-time gauges as long as the OBD supports the specific code. I'm running the app on an iPad 4 Mini to monitor things. (The Check Engine light I got turned out to be almost insignificant.)




Photography & Videography
When we started this I assumed I'd use a decommissioned (no cell service) iPhone 8 for pics and videos. (I'm still assuming I'll use a decommissioned iPhone 6 as a drone monitor.) But that didn't work out...
I like iPhones. I tried a Samsung Galaxy once some years ago and I didn't like it, didn't like the OS either, and couldn't wait to get rid of it. iPhones take great pics, beautiful sharp focus, rich color, etc., but they absolutely suck at motion videography because they have no internal stabilization.

So I bought (eventually returned) several stabilizers. Balancing and re-balancing the iPhone is very annoying. Understanding instructions written in Chinglish is even more annoying. Any manual operation of the iPhone while it's clamped and balanced in the stabilizer is just about impossible and if you activate voice control on the iPhone then the little birdie you're trying to film will hear you and fly away...

The has built-in internal stabilization. Incredible stabilization. The most current version is the GoPro Hero 7. Below are the accessories that you'll need or probably want:
Lens cover. Protect your lens.
Spare batteries and a battery charger. You can charge a battery in the GoPro but that's not so easy out on a hike. There are rumors that the GoPro 7 eats battery power waay faster than previous GoPro cameras. I can't confirm that because this is my first GoPro.
A portable battery can keep your GoPro (or smartphone, etc) running for hours. An angled USB connector helps manage that cable. (Forget the solar charging hype, it takes at least two full days of bright Florida sunshine to charge these devices.)
Something to protect and store your spare batteries in.
Memory card and card holder. GoPro has an iPhone app with which you can transfer movies to your iPhone. I prefer to transfer to a laptop and/or desktop for better editing.
I also use a Flash Drive to transfer files from the laptop to the desktop for final editing. This makes it easy to keep backup copies along the way.
Telescoping handle is better than getting your fingers in the frame or on the lens. The more fiddling around you have to do while filming the more editing you have to do later...
GoPro carrying case. A hard case, just for the GoPro.
GoPro and accessory carrying case.
This flexible tripod is awesome. You can wrap it around anything. You found someone hiking and talking constantly? Wrap it around their face! Wrap it around a tree branch. Wrap it around anything.
GoPro Hero 7 (Black) User Manual




Hiking
We like hiking, so does our dog. We like Florida State Parks. We bought an RV just so we could spend weekends visiting Florida State Parks and hiking those trails. We're casual people, not interested in how far or how fast or how high we can hike. Our approach is not casual. We study and research everything, we require high quality gear and plenty of it.
Kathy thinks these are the best hiking/walking footwear on the planet. I don't have to wear them so I don't have an opinion on them.
Rockport. Best fitting footwear, period. All the hype about ultra-technical hiking footwear is crap. Your shoes or boots must fit perfectly. Nothing is more important than the fit. You can't enjoy hiking if your feet are uncomfortable. Rockport fits me perfect, perfect. They are acceptably rugged and not heavy to wear. If you have issues finding extremely comfortable footwear try Rockport.
The 2nd most important element is socks. Goldtoe are the best socks you can buy.
Depending on the hike and/or the weather Kathy might wear a backpack or a fanny pack.
Depending on the hike and/or the weather I might wear a backpack or a fanny pack. Most of the time I wear neither.
There are a thousand things you can carry in your pack. Probably the single most important safety-related item to carry in your pack is a snakebite kit. We also carry disposible rain ponchos, mini-first aid kit, emergency blanket, knife, dog treats, etc.
This is the best dog water bottle you can buy.
This is the best human water bottle you can buy.
If you smoke or hike with someone who smokes hook this on the beltloop and never leave cigarettes butts on the trail.
Instead of stuffing your pockets you can easily hang things off your pants with these.
Notes: Florida State Parks aren't all that big, and they aren't extremely remote. We have good cell coverage in Florida. You probably don't need a satellite telephone or an EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radiobeacon). (We have neither.) If you think you need a satellite telephone and/or an EPIRB then you do. What you really do need is a handgun. (And a Florida Concealed Weapons License, and training and practice.) Remember: It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...


This isn't all of our gear but it's most of it. We like to be comfortable, we like having all the comforts of home in our home away from home. Our RV is like the original Lunar Excursion Module and we always remember this quote from the Harrison Ford movie Six Days Seven Nights: "It's an island, babe. If you didn't bring it here, you won't find it here."
With most of the came-broke and came-sketchy stuff fixed or replaced it's time for:


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